In Central Florida, the last lawn feeding of the year goes down in early October. That surprises a lot of people who moved here from up north, where fall feeding is a ritual. In Ocala, the timing works differently, and Marion County has its own rules about how much you can put down and where.
Here's when to fertilize, when to stop, and how to keep your lawn green without sending nutrients into the springs.
The Short Answer
UF/IFAS, the University of Florida's agricultural extension service, gives a clear window for Central Florida lawns:
- Start in early April, once the grass is actively growing again.
- Stop in early October. That's the recommended last application for Central Florida.
- In between, feed only while the lawn is actively growing. UF/IFAS puts the main growing period for North and Central Florida at about April through September.
Fertilizing outside that window mostly feeds the groundwater, not the grass.
Why Not Fertilize Earlier in Spring?
The first warm week in February tempts everyone to get a head start. Resist it.
UF research found that the risk of nitrate leaching in north-central Florida is highest from January through March. During those months, warm-season grass roots are at their smallest and the lawn may still be partly dormant. Roots that small can't take up much nitrogen, so what you spread washes down through the soil instead.
That's a bigger deal here than in most places. Marion County sits on sandy soil that drains fast, over the aquifer that feeds Silver Springs and Rainbow Springs. Marion County's water resources office has pointed out that nutrients leaching into groundwater end up affecting those springs and the life that depends on them.
Wait for the grass to green up and start growing on its own. Then feed it.
What Marion County's Fertilizer Ordinance Says
Marion County has a fertilizer ordinance that limits how much you can apply and where. As summarized by the county in 2024, the main rules are:
- Nitrogen: no more than 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet at any one time
- Yearly nitrogen limits by grass: 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet for Bahia and St. Augustine, 4 pounds for Bermuda and zoysia, and 2 pounds for centipede
- Phosphorus: no more than half a pound per 1,000 square feet per year
- Hard surfaces: no fertilizer on driveways or sidewalks, and it can never be washed, swept, or blown into storm drains, ditches, or water
- No-fertilizer buffers: 75 feet from Silver Springs, Silver Run, Rainbow Springs, and the Rainbow River; 100 feet from sinkholes; 15 feet from the top of the bank of retention ponds, canals, wetlands, and other water
The same rules apply to organic fertilizers. If you live near the river in Dunnellon or close to the springs in Silver Springs, those buffers can cover a real share of your yard.
Rules change, and some Florida counties also ban nitrogen and phosphorus applications during the summer rainy season. Before you fertilize, check the current Marion County ordinance or the free Florida Fertilizer Ordinances web app from UF/IFAS.
A Central Florida Fertilizer Calendar
| Time of year | What to do |
|---|---|
| January–March | Hold off on nitrogen. This is the highest leaching risk of the year. Good time for a soil test. |
| Early April | First feeding, once the lawn is actively growing. |
| April–September | Feed according to your grass type, staying under the county's yearly limit. Use mostly slow-release nitrogen. Skip it if heavy rain is coming. |
| Early October | Last application for Central Florida. Keep fall feedings to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet or less. |
| Late October–December | No nitrogen. Keep mowing as needed and clear fallen leaves so they don't smother the turf. |
Match the Fertilizer to Your Grass
Different grasses want different amounts, and the county limits reflect that.
Bahiagrass needs fewer nutrients than other Florida lawn grasses. It's the low-input option, so don't treat it like a showpiece St. Augustine lawn.
St. Augustine is where overfeeding causes the most trouble. UF/IFAS warns that big doses of quick-release nitrogen push rapid growth that leaves St. Augustine more susceptible to chinch bugs. Slow-release fertilizer is the better fit. If you're already fighting yellow patches, our guide to chinch bugs in Ocala explains how to check.
Bermuda and zoysia can take more nitrogen in a year, which is why the county allows 4 pounds for them.
Centipede wants the least of the common lawn grasses, with a county limit of 2 pounds a year.
Not sure what's growing in your yard? Start with our guide to grass types in Ocala.
Read the Bag Before You Buy
The three numbers on a fertilizer bag are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, in that order.
- Nitrogen is the one that drives growth and color, and the one the county caps.
- Phosphorus should be low or zero. UF/IFAS notes that most Florida soils already have enough, and recommends adding it only when a recent soil test says you need it.
- Slow-release nitrogen is listed on the label. It feeds the lawn over a longer stretch, lowers the chance of burning the grass, and is less likely to wash away in a summer downpour. UF/IFAS recommends a mix of soluble and slow-release nitrogen rather than all quick-release.
Get a Soil Test First
Marion County's water resources liaison has said the most common fertilizer mistake is a simple one: not getting a soil test before choosing a fertilizer.
A soil test tells you what your lawn is actually short on, so you're not buying phosphorus you don't need or chasing a problem fertilizer can't fix. Your local UF/IFAS Extension office can tell you how to get one done.
One more thing worth knowing: yellow grass isn't always hungry grass. In summer, a little iron can deepen the color of St. Augustine, Bahia, or centipede without pushing extra growth. UF/IFAS also points out that iron's effect only lasts a few weeks, and it won't fix yellowing caused by a true nitrogen shortage. That's another reason to test before you treat.
How to Apply It Without Wasting It
- Check the forecast. Don't fertilize if heavy rain is likely within 24 hours. A Florida thunderstorm can carry it straight off the lawn.
- Water it in lightly. Afterward, water just enough to wet the top half inch of soil and wash the granules off the grass blades. Heavier watering right after can push nutrients down past the roots.
- Keep it on the grass. Use a spreader with a deflector shield near driveways, sidewalks, and water. Sweep any stray granules back onto the lawn, never into the street.
- Respect the buffers. UF/IFAS suggests leaving a 10-foot unfertilized strip along the water's edge. In Marion County the required buffer near ponds, canals, and wetlands is 15 feet, and much larger near the springs and Rainbow River.
Need Help With Your Lawn?
Fertilizing well in Central Florida is mostly about timing and restraint. Our fertilization and weed control program is built around the growing season, the county's limits, and your specific grass, and it's overseen by a certified State Horticulturist. If the feeding schedule is right, you'll also find your mowing schedule gets easier to keep up with.
Contact us for a free estimate. We'll look at your turf, talk through what it actually needs, and build a plan that keeps it green within the rules.